Bottarga. Like fish? You’ll love this...
Published July 2007
I was staying with my then boyfriend on the beautiful island of Sardinia when I was first introduced to a fishy little bar all wrapped up like a precious jewel in foil – it was treated like a commodity back then, and it still isn’t cheap. His father carefully unwrapped it to reveal a chestnut coloured bar of what was later explained to me as “dried fish eggs”.
I wasn’t immediately excited by this package it must be said, but after tasting it, the wonderful, exotic “bottarga” has become a firm favourite of mine. Like Marmite you either love it or hate it – my British chef husband (Sardinia was all a long time ago...!) thinks it should be banned.
But I’ve always kept a soft spot in my heart for the beloved Bottarga.
The one I fell in love with is made from mullet eggs (although tuna bottarga is also widely available). For hard core fish lovers, it can be sliced and eaten as an antipasto on bread – it’s really fishy, really full on and not for the faint hearted.
If that doesn’t sound like your cup or tea then don’t write it off because there is however a more palatable way of eating it – it’s really easy and makes a deliciously different dish.
Cook some fresh or good quality dried pasta (my favourite is rustichella d’abruzzo because they dry it slowly so it retains its flavour and texture) and whilst it’s cooking, slice up some garlic (I adore it in rustic slices, but some may prefer it in smaller chunks).
When the pasta’s ready, warm some extra virgin olive oil in a pan – when I say some, I mean, if you’re cooking for four then a good three quarters of a tea cup – the oil will need to completely coat the pasta. Throw in the garlic and cook it – but don’t let it burn as there is nothing worse than the bitterness of burnt garlic, and if you did burn it you’d absolutely have to start all over again!
When the garlic is sizzling and a pale shade of brown (the oil should be well flavoured with the garlic by now) throw in the pasta and let it soak up the lovely garlic oil. Dish it up into bowls. Get out your grater and this is where the bottarga comes in – just grate away, like you would a hunk of parmesan. Maybe not too much for the uninitiated (I like it thick and plentiful!), mix it up and eat immediately!
When I’ve little time, little energy and I’m craving something delicious, this whole meal takes about 10 – 12 minutes (depending on your pasta), takes no skill and after one mouthful, instantly transports me back to the white beaches of Sardinia…
By Catrin MacDonnell, of www.PapaDeli.co.uk, an online Aladdin's Cave of deliciousness.
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